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EGR not opening and closing correctly

Had a new turbo put on truck in July going down hill with jakes 1500 rpm check engine light going uphill 1800 rpm check engine light both intermittent

After a couple weeks on way home the tco temp sensor blew off the outlet side of turbo had to jb weld it back on

finally got it back to Freightliner in Knoxville, TN

after replacing Turbo and charging me $508 labor they told me my that the EGR valve was sticking and the V pod harness and main wiring harness was bad and that if I didn't get these repaired they weren't going to warranty another Turbo.

Another $3400 wasn't in my budget so now I just hope it won't blow something apart before I can get it back into the shop and have it checked by Detroit.

My question as far as the harness I am definitely getting a 2nd opinion, but ft this is a sticking EGR vlv am I going to have turbo problems with another sensor blowing out or worse and other then the check engine light horse power seems fine on top and bottom end

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That hardness connector gets loose Ive had mine replaced twice

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THE HARNESS's do go BAD on the vpod just due to vibration and age that black loom on the harness over the last 7 years wears the coating off the wires especialy on the bends add some oil and moisture and were only working with 5volts and less. so half a volt drop can make a big difference.

now on the EGR valve sticking if it sticks shut good deal maybe a cel for no flow

but if its sticks open even half way you it will start choking itself out and big puffs of black smoke will puff out you. I think the temp sensor was just a fluke

or it got bumped and cracked some how and not related to this

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I know the main harness is probably a booger to replace but how hard is the Vpod harness to replace and I am getting intermittent CEL and I don't beleive I see a lot of smoke. mech. wouldn't or couldn't tell me if it was sticking open or closed

If I decide to change out the EGR valve is it a fairly simple thing or is it more then a few bolts and a gasket?

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The vpod harness has a connector under intake manifold towards the back of the engine then goes around back of the head to vpod and EGR valve and maybee temp sensor on head if i remember right. the EGR relpace only pays 3 hours labor but if its been there a while probly 5hrs some shops split the turbo

I always take it off more room to work just be carefull with the temp sensor and the turbo speed sensor!! they aint cheap the oil lines on the egr valve are the bigest pain and the airline on turbo the fitting nuts rust to the line. As far as the valve its held on by 3 nuts and a clamp be sure to replace the acordian flexpipe that goes to manifold they hardly ever reseal good and you end up with what sounds like a ticking an soot coming from the clamp just take air cleaner off heat sheild off turbo off egr off and reverse oh yah new Orings on the return oil tube for turbo

do not unbolt the fitting under turbo it just lifts up and tube slides out but will also leak if you reuse orings there brown and there are two differant sizes so either buy two of each or take one with you you also need 12 point 13 mm or 1\2 inch wrench for turbo nuts and make sure the top oil line aint hitting on turbo clamp when you tighten it back up think thats it good luck

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hi my name its Hector Morales I just had my EGR valve replaced in my 2007 freightliner century still does the same problem, it will start chocking itself out and big puffs of black smoke will puff out. Can anybody help me identify the problem, please

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Edward DuBois will be eternally grateful.

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